Monday October 16th

I set off to my destination, the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia, but because of the ferry being out, I had a seven and a half hour drive to Ingonish at the start of the area I wanted to explore, instead of a three and a half hour drive. I left at around 6am in the dark, and set off to the bridge, which was toward the western side of the island, past Charlottetown, and about the same distance again beyond it, about an hour’s drive. It was a damp morning, and the forecast was not promising – there were heavy rainfall warnings – I had never seen that before!
There wasn’t a lot of traffic as I drove in the dark with a bit of drizzle, though there was more around Charlottetown. I wasn’t really held up though, and got out to the bridge as it was starting to get light. It cost about $55 to cross the bridge, only one way – the way I was going. Apparently it was free to get onto the Island, but you had to pay to get off! The ferry worked the same way, you paid to leave the island, but it was free to return. (But it was first come first serve, unless you paid to book a ticket.) The bridge was cheaper than the ferry, and some people would come to the island by the ferry for free, then leave by the bridge, which was costing the ferry money. I was surprised they didn’t have the same organisation collecting both tolls, or sharing revenue or something.
I paid the toll, and drove along the bridge, which was an impressive sight. I was glad to get to drive over it, even if it did add a huge distance to my trip. It was about 13km long, one lane each way, zoned 80km/h, and so it took a while to drive over it, across the ocean, an interesting experience. I got off the bridge into New Brunswick, an extra province to my list that I hadn’t expected. There were signs advising to slow down at night because of moose. It had started raining, and didn’t stop for the entire day, which made for muted, misty scenery. There were signs of good autumn colour. I saw a sign for a turn off to the Bay of Fundy, which I had heard about, with very high and fast tides. It would have been interesting to see if I had more time, but I think it was a fair way away.
After about half an hour, I joined Trans Canada Highway 2. It was well made, two lanes each way. I was to follow that highway for 380km. I’d brought some snacks along, and munched on these as I went, in lieu of breakfast. The road went through rolling hills. Perhaps another three quarters of an hour later I came to a toll plaza – part of the highway was a toll road, costing $4. I was able to pay by card, so didn’t have to mess around with registering on web sites. A fair bit later I passed the road to the Pictou ferry, which I would have taken if the ferry was running, rather ruefully thinking about how long the detour was!
I stopped for fuel after around four hours or so, at Antigonish (pronounced “AntigonESH” with the emphasis on the last syllable), and got something to have for lunch. It was nice to be driving something less fuel-hungry than the van. Not far after that the road went down to one lane each way, and after a while I went across a causeway onto Cape Breton Island.
It was a rather industrial looking area, with a quarry on one side. I remember Mum talking about Cape Breton, and how they had an ice hockey team which were very rough. There were pretty areas through here, along the side of a huge lake system called the Bras d’Or Lake. I’d remembered Dad talking about seeing this area. In some of these areas, instead of road signs in English and French, they were in English and Gaelic, which was very interesting to see!
The road started to get pretty treacherous through here, because there had been so much rain, and there were depressed tyre tracks along parts of the road that were filled up, but were almost invisible, and would suddenly grab the wheel as I drove through them. I had to be constantly on guard. That went on for probably an hour or so, not pleasant! I passed through Baddeck, which I seem to remember Mum mentioning as well, though I don’t remember why. The foliage was starting to look magnificent, and after about six and a half hours of driving, I stopped to take some photos of beautiful colours near a spot called Harbourview on an inlet.
Not far along was a river which also had lovely trees around it, and I took some more photos along there, on the way to the coast. I stopped for lunch at last around 1, at a place called MacDonalds Pond, near Little River, with lovely views of beaches, inlets and forests. It was still raining, and I ate my lunch in the car.
The sea was pretty rough, and there were large waves coming into the beach. The road wound up into the hills, and I stopped at an overlook to see the sea with misty hills going off into the distance down the coast.
A little further, at the locality of Ingonish Ferry (again pronounced “IngonESH”, I learned), I could see across a bay to Ingonish Beach. To get there you had to drive around the little bay for a few minutes, and I took a turn-off from the main road to have a look along the coast at Ingonish Beach. The waves were really large here, it was an impressive sea. I found a spot to park, and walked along the road a little way. The coast was wild looking, with the beach made up of rather large stones, though the harbour itself was quite quiet.
I got to the visitor centre in Ingonesh, and paid the entrance fee, which was fairly cheap, and lasted till around 4 the next day, which suited me, as I would have to be gone by then. With all the rain, I jokingly asked if we got a discount for the weather! So I had finally arrived at the heart of the Cabot Trail, which went around the top of Cape Breton Island, along the coast on both sides, and cut across from one side to the other near the northern end. It was still raining, and didn’t look like stopping, so some of the hikes I’d planned with views weren’t looking like good options, given the misty views I’d seen so far.
I had a look at the beautiful Freshwater Lake near the visitor centre, then stopped at a beach near Ingonish which seemed to be composed just of stones, about the size of a small hand, coloured with pink and grey speckles, mostly one colour or the other. The sea was rushing in and out, and the stones were rattling around as the water moved them around. It was a very unusual beach.
A little further along was a more sheltered cove, with a small piece of beach, a breakwater, and a some pretty white houses with grey roofs, a peaceful scene. In the distance were misty hills, reminding me a bit of the south-east coast of Tasmania in similar weather.
My first planned hike had been Broad Cove, near Warren Lake. The road in was beautiful, through a colourful forest. I drove to the lake, and enjoyed the scene for a while. It was about 3.30pm by this time. I thought I would have a go at the hike, since the foliage was so pretty. This turned out to be quite an experience. Because of all the rain, a lot of the track was a creek, and stairs were waterfalls. There was water running and pooled everywhere. The rain wasn’t very heavy at this point, and I had some shelter from the trees, so whilst I was getting damp, I wasn’t soaked.
Navigating along the track that had turned into rivers and waterfalls wasn’t easy, as I didn’t want to get my feet soaked in the deep puddles. Once or twice I was able to put a stone or log into one of the puddles or streams so I could get across.
It was a fair climb to the summit, where I could still see across some forest, and just see an inlet and the sea in the distance. It would have been spectacular in the sunshine, but was still beautiful in a misty way, and the autumn foliage all along was fantastic, it looked to be pretty much at its peak.
I got back about ten to five, and had another look at the beautiful road through the foliage before heading on. I had more or less written off other activities for the day. I still had a bit of a way to drive to get to my accommodation at Pleasant Bay. I stopped briefly at Lakies Head, which had huge waves crashing against rocks. It was very dramatic and I’d have loved to see more of it, but I was getting pretty wet in the rain without shelter, and time was going. I had a look at Black Brook Cove, which had a waterfall going into the sea, which was a raging torrent by this time.
From there the road went by Neils Harbour, which I took a quick look at without getting out of the car, then up into the hills, across the island. There was a lot of forest, with truly spectacular colours, fading as it slowly got dark. The road wound down to sea level again, to Pleasant Bay, about 30km from there, where I arrived towards dark, and I was pretty wet. Amazingly, about the only things that had stayed dry were my feet, which was an impressive feat for the hiking boots.
Pleasant Bay was a pretty small place, but the motel had a restaurant, which I was glad of, as I didn’t bring provisions for making dinner, nor I think would there have been anywhere to cook it in the motel unit. I’m not sure there was even an electric jug and tea bags – that seemed not to be a standard thing over there. I’d checked beforehand to make sure I would get dinner! I ordered my meal, while a lady played on a guitar, and sang. I had been wanting to have some lobster while in the Maritime provinces, remembering the lobster we had in PEI when we were kids, but that was in July, and it wasn’t lobster season now.
I could have had lobster for something like $40, but I couldn’t bring myself to pay that, and had a nice meal of fish and veggies, for much less. It was good to go back to the unit and get out of my wet clothes. There was a thermostat that looked as though it was from the 80s in the room, and I wondered if it actually worked. I turned it up to a fairly toasty temperature, and though there was no noise anywhere, the room did heat up quite nicely after a while. I kept it quite warm overnight, and my clothes were dry the next morning, thankfully.